Janko Bogatic is ‘Gabernik 23’, his acres of vines are situated in Ritoznoj, at around 500m altitude, in the foothills of the Pohorje ranges. The area is characterised by marl soils, warm summer days and cold, snowy winters, which raise wines of good concentration and flavour. Janko is all about wild fermentation and he only uses oak to rest one of his wines. Decent complexity and balance here, this perhaps best shows Janko’s schtick that the ‘unfashionable’ grapes he works with can raise wines far more compelling than their reputations suggest. Pét Nat or farmhouse cider fans will love this instantly. Delicious notes of banana custard, peach and honey suckle on the nose and the palate is alive and zippy. A very fine bubble, with fruit acid reminding us of lemon sherbet lollies.
